Listen to this Adventure
The Kokopelli Trail was established in 1989 by the Colorado Plateau Mountain Bike Trail Association (COPMBA). The name Kokopelli is synonymous with the hunchbacked flute playing figure that has become so popular throughout the Southwestern United States. A little research on Kokopelli reveals many dichotomies on who or what he was. Dating back over 2000 years he’s been linked to everything from a fertile deity, a prankster and healer to a traveling showman complete with music to play, stories to tell and wares to sell. Some believe that Kokopelli’s flute playing signaled the ending of winter and beginning of spring. How apropos that we’d be traveling this trail in the last few days of April, after the winter snows had given way to spring flowers and warming winds. Today, you can find Kokopelli symbols on everything from dishware to shower curtains. But the real place to see him is on the pictographs and petroglyphs of the American Southwest. The first time I remember seeing this symbol was on a painted rock I purchased from one of the Native American vendors at the Four Corners Monument. I traveled all the way from New York only to find that the Four Corners was nothing more than a tourist trap, and the one-of-a- kind rock painting I purchased was nothing more than a novelty act. That was back in 1995. Little did I know that nearly 20 years later I’d be traveling that namesake trail in the driver's seat of a 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser. Surely, this was no tourist trap, and this time I wouldn’t be fooled by novelty rocks. This was the real thing and I could almost hear the subtle tones of a flute playing as we started off on the trail.
Getting Ready
One of my first considerations about doing this, or any trail, was the readiness of my vehicle. I would be spending a considerable amount of time traveling the 150 off-highway miles to complete this trip. Altitudes on this trail range from 4,000 to 8,500 feet above sea level. I needed to consider gear, food, fuel, spare parts and most importantly, water. Both for drinking and cleaning up after long dusty days. I’m no stranger to sleeping on the ground or crawling into a tent with the dust of the trail still clinging to my body. I’ve traveled the El Camino del Diablo in Arizona twice, and the dust and sand from that trail will surely rival this one. However, that was over 15 years ago and those days are behind me now. I appreciate clean sleeping quarters whenever I can have them.
Maintenance wise, my vehicle was ready. Logistics wise, I had my work to do. How do I bring what I need and still leave room for some of the comforts that I want? There’s a lot to consider. Do I want to be able to take a hot shower every day? An on-board hot water system would be great. Should I tent camp, or sleep in the truck? Now would be the perfect time to buy that rooftop tent I’ve been wanting. I have a dual battery system in my truck, complete with a 1500-watt power inverter, so I can bring a coffee pot but do I need one? Boiled water from a camp stove will make instant coffee just fine. I decided to see what kind of room I would have after I started packing. This is supposed to be an adventure, but I still wanted to pack some of the extras that I enjoy. As for water, I’d like to have 2-3 gallons to drink plus 6 or 7 gallons for washing up. I started researching shower bags, on-board shower systems and portable showers. The only water we’d see on the Kokopelli was from the Colorado and Dolores rivers, but they would both be muddy from winter run-off. I’d have to carry my own fresh water. 10 gallons of water weighs nearly 85lbs. If I decide to carry a rooftop tent, gear and water on my roof rack, I’m looking at adding 250lbs to the top of my vehicle. That’s a lot of added weight up high on a tall SUV. I had to determine if tipping over was a real concern on some of the more extreme portions of this trail. I also had to consider that once I arrived in Moab, I had 2 more days of trails to run. What would I do with all the unneeded gear for those trails? I kept telling myself to take only what was needed and not everything I wanted. Pack smart.
In the end, I went simple. I removed the second row of seats in my truck and built a new floor complete with tie downs for my fridge, equipment and tools. Plus, I created an area for sleeping. I could lay fully stretched out on a makeshift mattress in a comfortable sleeping bag. I carried 5 gallons of water in a solar shower bag on my roof and another 7 gallons in an aquatainer inside the truck. I packed a small 12 inch propane stove for cooking and filled my fridge with mostly pre-made food and drinks. Simple.
Beginning the Trail
The scheduled meeting time for the Kokopelli Expedition was between 9:00-9:30am at the Rabbit Valley exit off I-70 in Colorado. This exit is about two miles from the Utah border. There are no services, it’s just an exit to nowhere - or everywhere, depending on what your plans are. This is where I’d be meeting the group I would spend the next 3 days with. I left Denver at 4am to make it there on time, but I was still the last one to pull into the rendezvous site. Most of the others had arrived very early or camped out the previous night. Some from as far away as San Francisco and Central Canada. Its always an interesting dynamic when meeting up like this. Would we all get along? Was everyone prepared? There were 11 vehicles and 17 people, including 2 children. We also had 3 friendly dogs on the trip. Except for the 2 friends that were part of the group, I had never met any of these folks personally. We had all been doing our introductions via a Kokopelli thread on IH8MUD. In any case, it took less than 5 minutes to realize we had a special group. Before we even kicked up dust we were laughing and joking with each other. I knew this was about to be a once in a lifetime trip. The excitement to start rolling was close to boiling over.
Cruise Moab is an annual event hosted by the Rising Sun 4x4 Club in Denver, CO. The Kokopelli Trail expedition was being hosted by Book Cliff Cruisers out of Grand Junction, CO. This was their backyard and they knew the area well. Jonathan Harris, the trail leader, called us together for our drivers meeting just before 10am. Of all the participants on this expedition, only Jonathan and his co-leader Ace Brown, had run this entire trail. I think that’s what added to the camaraderie of the group, we were all excited to see something new. As we stood in a large circle making in-person introductions, Jonathan told us that Book Cliff Cruisers would be hosting dinner in camp that evening, and breakfast the following morning. Little did we know what was in store. Jonathan gave the universal sign of “lets go” by raising his hand in the air and drawing a circle in the sky. Time to roll.
It’s a good feeling to start off for the unknown under sunny skies, warm temperatures and open windows. It had been far too long since I’d traveled through the desert. Although we all carried CB’s, almost everyone in the group was a HAM radio operator as well. HAM makes communication on the trail so much nicer. As we rolled through the wide open country, we spoke about the abundance of wildflowers, the beautiful view of the snowcapped La Sal mountain range, and how nice it was to finally be on the trip that was 5 months in the planning. Soon after starting out, we approached the first obstacle on the trip, a series of step down ledges that everyone cleared with no trouble. It was obvious that we had a good group of drivers and capable vehicles. There were 4 trailers being pulled on our first day as well. One of the trailers was filled with all the cooking supplies and food for our camp dinner that night. Matt Burrmaster, a fishing guide from Aspen and also a Book Cliff Cruisers member, was pulling the trailer behind his built 3rd gen 4Runner. His nickname quickly became “Cookie” since he was our camp chef and the trailer was aptly named the “Chuck Wagon”.
As we weaved along the shelf roads of the Kokopelli Trail, a call came over the CB that one of the 80’s had cut a tire on a sharp rock. The first sign of synergy amongst the group was about to present itself. I was part of the front four vehicles and the cut tire happened behind us. We parked at a small pullout with amazing views of the valley and the mountain bike portion of the trail. The rest of the group stopped to assist in swapping out the cut tire for a fresh one. In just a matter of minutes, the crew was rolling again. A team effort of one guy on the Hi-Lift, one removing the tire and another removing/installing the spare made it seamless. After we all regrouped and had a quick lunch, we were rolling again as a complete group. We rolled through some fantastic landscape. Dirt roads, loose rock, rough terrain and one long portion of two-track that looked just like the Serengeti. The only downfall, was the wind. It had really picked up and we were seeing gusts around 50mph. A byproduct of that wind was the dust we were creating. It was really flying. Most of us had the option of rolling up our windows, but there was one open top FJ40 amongst the group. Richard and Kim, a fantastic couple from Vail, CO were relishing in the fact that they were the only 40 in the group, and the dust wasn’t bothering them one bit. “It’s part of being a 40 driver”, they said. Eventually, we convinced them to move up front where the dust was minimal and everyones sympathy turned to jealousy as we could see the allure of spending all day soaking in the sun under an open top.
At around 4pm we rolled into our first camp. Fish Ford is a vast expanse of riparian land along the Colorado river with free range cattle roaming amongst the scrub brush and cottonwood trees. It was open enough to fit 3 or 4 vehicles in each small area, but confined enough that we all felt like camp neighbors. Little subdivisions separated by scrub brush fences. The wind settled down enough for everyone to quickly set up camp and reach into their fridges for a cold drink. We were within earshot of the Colorado river and a few of us herded to the waters edge like thirsty cattle. A quick dip in the cold water was just enough to wash the dirt and dust away. We had only been together for about 8 hours, but it already felt like we knew each other for years. “Cookie”, our camp chef, was already hard at work preparing an unbelievable meal. He had ovens, griddles and grills all working at the same time. Fresh fruit and appetizers were spread all over the tables. He even doubled as a bartender mixing drinks après-ski style. The next few hours were spent in this fashion. Beers from around the world were shared, and stories were told. Everything from religion, to education, to camp coffee was discussed. Our first day was epic and our first night ended long after the sun went down. Each of us slinking into our sleeping quarters eager for what the second day would have in store.
A Perfect Long Day
The next morning broke with the grass still wet from the previous nights storm. Unbeknownst to me, heavy rain and winds blew through sometime after we turned in. The sleeping platform I constructed inside my Land Cruiser made it possible for me to sleep fully stretched out inside of the truck, doors and windows closed. Oblivious to the world around me. The others in roof top tents or ground tents were woken by wind and rain. I woke up feeling fully rested. As I made my first cup of camp coffee I could smell the unmistakable smell of bacon and sausage frying. Cookie was at it again, and from the looks of it, breakfast was going to be just as good as dinner. I thought to myself, “I could get used to this lifestyle.” After a meal fit for a king, we were all packed, cleaned and ready to go. Day 2 would be our longest day. We left Fish Ford with 55 degree temps and about half the wind of the previous day.
Our ultimate destination on Day 2 was near Robert’s Bottom and the famous Dewey Bridge. Travel was more of the same. Beautiful views and fantastic trails. On this route, we actually made it to camp by mid-day. But the real fun was only just beginning. We only stopped at camp to drop off trailers and grab a quick lunch. We were heading right back out to tackle the Top of the World trail. This trail is almost non-stop obstacles from bottom to top. Ledges, steps, climbs and descents, large rocks, it’s all there. The trail is named for the unbelievable viewpoint at the far end. From this vantage point the views are literally breathtaking. If you (cautiously) look straight down from the edge, you can see over 2000 feet below to the Fisher Valley floor. You can also see hundreds of miles in any direction. The natural beauty and striking colors of the distant landscapes make for wall hanging pictures. It’s a view that will remain etched in my mind forever. The trip back down to camp was just as fun as the climb. The setting sun still warming the air promised another great night around the campfire. It was nice to raise glasses and toast with my new friends after a day like that. I tried my best to stay up with the group, but the long day got the best of me and I retreated into my cocoon for a very deep slumber.
Finishing Kokopelli
Day 3 would be our final day together as a group. It would also consist of the most difficult portions of the trail. Before going anywhere though, I knew I was getting low on fuel and it was time to add the 4 gallons I was carrying. This would be just enough for me to make it into Moab. By now, everyone was getting used to the beauty in front of us and chatter on the CB’s and 2M turned to a more personal note. We talked about families, hobbies, vehicle mods and life in general. This went on for an hour or more until we reached the first obstacle. It was a tight off-camber right turn down a steep portion of the trail that seemed too narrow for the FJ40, and all but impossible for my whale-sized 100 Series. With a granite wall on the left and a steep drop-off on the right, I put all my faith in my spotter and kept my attention on his directions. The entire group made it through without a scrape, but the real challenge was about to begin. Our next stop was atop the infamous Rose Garden Hill. I had done some research on Rose Garden Hill and the pictures made it look relatively tame. Standing at the top and looking down I wondered to myself if I had been looking at the wrong pictures online. This trail was very intimidating and it looked to be nearly straight down for one-quarter of a mile. The ledges looked as tall as a full grown man and I worried about spraining an ankle just trying to walk down. I’ll never forget the feeling of cresting the edge of the first ledge and starting down this hill. I was filled with excitement and nervousness at the same time. This is the most difficult portion of the entire Kokopelli trail. Once you clear the first ledge and feel the bash of your sliders and the bump and scrape of your rear bumper, the rest of the steep hill just flows by. Once again, faith and trust in your spotter goes a long way to safely clearing this section.
There is a large parking area at the bottom of Rose Garden Hill. We all regrouped there and told our own personal account of how the hill treated us. One FZJ80 in our group very nearly rolled over and it was easier to laugh and joke about it now that all four wheels were firmly parked on solid ground. We still had a lot of miles to cover, so we hit the trail for the final push into Moab. This final day takes you through Hideout Canyon and Fisher Valley. Two beautiful areas complete with 2-track roads and small scattered obstacles. From the valley floor, the trail climbs into the Manti-LaSal National Forest and up to an elevation of 8500 feet. It’s a stark contrast from the previous two days of travel. Red sand and rock is replaced with green from ponderosa pines and depending on the time of year, pure white snow. There is a good chance the dust you’ve accumulated over the previous 125 miles will mix with mud from the snowmelt and runoff from the mountain range as well.
The last portion of trail is along Sand Flats Road, which is the gateway to famous Moab area trails like Hells Revenge, Fins and Things and Porcupine Rim. For some members of our group, this was their introduction to the town of Moab, UT. What a grand way to arrive in the most famous 4x4 town in America. Upon completing this epic 3-day expedition there is a sense of accomplishment and most of all, a sense of synergy amongst the group that traveled together. By this point, we all felt like we’d known each other for years. It was a strange feeling knowing that once we hit town, we’d all be going our separate ways. Some would be camping at Cruise Moab headquarters, some would be heading for their hotels and a few were even heading back home. Their goal was to complete the Kokopelli Trail, and that goal was reached. As for me, I went straight to the Chinese restaurant in town and ordered myself a full meal. Take-out of course, because I was dirty, dusty and tired. I brought it back to my hotel room and left it on the table while I took the first shower in almost four days. I wanted to slowly re-enter the world after spending so much time away from the hustle of a town, or traffic, or busy streets. It takes a little adjusting even after only 3 or 4 days away to re-establish yourself to the fast paced style of everyday life. I have spent nearly 2 weeks backpacking and fishing in Montana with my brother as the only other human to interact with. It’s always hard for us to go into town after that trip and see so many people. Everything seems so fast and so loud. That’s exactly how I felt after finishing the Kokopelli. For the last 150 miles the only vehicles I had seen were the ones in our group. We were all moving at the same speed and in the same direction. During Cruise Moab, the town is completely filled with Toyotas. All models and sizes, all coming and going in different directions. It was overwhelming and retreating to my hotel room allowed me the time to readjust to normal life.
It’s amazing what a hot shower and good meal can do for your spirits. After cleaning up and finishing my Chinese food, I went right back out to Cruise Moab headquarters. I met back up with some of our group and we walked into the main tent feeling like Lewis and Clark after returning from the Corps of Discovery Expedition. What a great feeling it was to recount the last few days with my new friends. I was also able to meet up with many old friends and hear about their own trail stories from Cruise Moab’s first two days. There are not too many places where a trip of this magnitude can be done so easily. A full 3-day expedition through some of the most spectacular scenery in America. The Kokopelli Trail is truly a bucket-list item and any adventurer should make it a priority on their list. Whether on mountain bike, off-highway vehicle or even two feet, it’s an adventure of a lifetime.
As I write this, I’m preparing for my third time on the trail. This year, I will be assisting Jonathan and Ace with trail leader and tail gunner duties as well as representing Rising Sun 4x4 Club as a trail host. When we all meet up for the first time next month, I can look around and know exactly what the first timers are feeling as we prepare to set off on the trail. I know they’ll hear the subtle tones of Kokopelli’s flute as we make first tracks in the Colorado sand, bound for Utah, three epic days away.
All Photos!
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